How do you know when a fish with ich is going to die?
Posted on July 29th, 2009 by admin
Fish
My fish tank got ich (from a pet shop) and I had to kill one of my fish last night because I thought he was going to die. He kept racing to the top of the tank to get oxygen and then would stay up there sucking, a couple of times he would do a 360. Another one of my fish was doing the same thing and he died so thought it would be humane to kill him instead of watching him suffer. Have i done the right thing? This morning i got up and one of my other fish has started eating after 4 days without, now i think maybe i should have given the other one a better chance. I am treating my tank with salt, high temp and baconex.
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My fish tank got ich (from a pet shop) and I had to kill one of my fish last night because I thought he was going to die. He kept racing to the top of the tank to get oxygen and then would stay up there sucking, a couple of times he would do a 360. Another one of my fish was doing the same thing and he died so thought it would be humane to kill him instead of watching him suffer. Have i done the right thing? This morning i got up and one of my other fish has started eating after 4 days without, now i think maybe i should have given the other one a better chance. I am treating my tank with salt, high temp and baconex.
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Filed under: Fish
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sounds like it will die soon. Treat your water for ich. You can buy it at any pet supply store. Once you get ich in your tank, it wont go away unless you treat it EARLY or it will eventually kill all of your fish!
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its just a fish g buy another one at 6the pet store!(after the opther dies) and clean the tank when nemo does die
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I hope you caught it early enough to sustain the remaining fish!
I lost four fish to ich because I realized too late what was happening.
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I found out that the heat may intensify bacteria. Room temp is best. They sell ich medicine at the pet store. Do exactly as it says on the bottle.
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Great question. The only way to tell is if you own the fish and know it habits. 1st let me tell you that you are doing the right treatment. Dont ever give up on them. I am unfamiliar with Baconex, but let me inform you that meds, salt, and high temps all decrease oxygen in your tank. I would stop using the meds.I have cured ICK before, although a Long time ago with salt and high temps. Neither is a cure for ICK. The high temps speed the life cycle of the parasite(ICK). The aqua salt actully irritates the fish so it produces more slime coat(natural defense to parasites/diseases and wounds). I hope youve read instructions on how much salt and temp, because I would have to remember or look it up again. The most important thing is to gravel vacuum the gravel EVERY day( add needed salt for water taken out). hat is where you can get the parasite(dormant form in the substrate). Otherwise the only time you can kill the parasite is free swimming form. Meds would be needed for that, but most meds kill “some” fish and alot of bacteria. Keep your lighjts off at all times of treatment. Your on the right track, meds would be of choice only. Trust me, Ive beat ICK before without medication.Although a long time ago.
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Description:
Ich is a parasite that burrows underneath a fish’s skin. They cause the fish to be dusted in white specks, sometimes compared in appearance to salt or sand grains. The fish may dart around and try to rub against objects in its tank. This disease can actually be quite lethal, but fortunately is very easy to diagnose and treat. The parasites will multiply in greater and greater numbers so it is important to start treating right away when detected. It is very important to note that just because the fish no longer have white spots that you may assume they are all dead. They will continue to live and reproduce in the water and surrounding tank after they have fallen off the fish. This is why the appropriate amount of heat is important. It would take weeks for the life cycle to complete at low temperatures! You must continue treating the tank for at least one full week in order to kill ALL the parasites (if tank kept warm; longer if not; see treatment below). The parasites on the fish cannot be treated; they are only susceptible to medication in a pre-adult phase of their life cycle, right before they become adults and attach to the fish.
Treatment:
Raising the water temperature will help to speed up the life cycle of the parasites (upper 70′s to 80 if your fish can handle this; temp of 90 can sterilize some fish. Try for 84, while gradually reducing temp as problem is cured). Salt baths are effective in getting the parasites off the fish. Salt baths are also beneficial in that you cause the parasites to fall off while the fish is in its bath water, then you return the fish to the tank without the parasites, so they won’t be present to reproduce in the tank! Products containing copper salt are very effective (note that this will kill snails) such as Coppersafe or Aquarisol. A number of other products can be found in stores specifically designed for Ich, but remember that the harsher the chemical is, the more stress it will cause to the fish too, not just the parasite. Malachite green is not suggested for scaleless fish like catfish or loaches, or some other fish such as tetras. Treat once every 3-4 days for 4 treatments, changing 50% of the water before every treatment. Continue this treatment for about 2 weeks to ensure death of all the parasites. Remember, they’re only susceptible to the medication during one phase of their life cycle which is a 3-day period.
Prevention:
A stressed and weakened fish for whatever reason will allow a dormant parasite to invade the fish and start multiplying. Eliminate stress due to poor water conditions, changes in temperature, bullying fish, etc. Quarantine new fish and plants to ensure you don’t bring parasites in from outside sources. Do not cause any drastic changes in temperature in your tank. Always float new fish in their new tank for at least 15 minutes to allow the temperature to stabilize and match before releasing them in a new tank (remember if you float in a bag to open it, as the fish need air to breathe). This is a very common problem in new tanks that causes new fish to contract the parasites, alongside poor water conditions in established or establishing tanks.
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